Owner for 1 day 11-02-09
First it has to be acknowledged that is this is a cheap chain saw, at $159 or 149 in that price range it is all about bang for buck. I believe the 35190 is essentially a Poulan Pro 18" #PP4218AVX., there are slight differences, such as better anti vibration control, but essentially it is close to the PP 18". The Price and Sears Credit was important to me. Compared to the more expensive Husqvarna 18" models the 35190 is a bargain, the Husqvarna Model# 952802268 is a 18" but only 38.2 CC compared to the 42 CC 35190. The 35190 is high tech hard plastic housing, controls, and grip/handle, only time and use will reveal how the plastic holds up. The EZ Tensioning system is a concern. So I did a little research and you can buy the old style clutch cover, tighting screw, and nuts from ordertree.com, you will have to talk to someone live because you can't locate the parts via the site. 530058935 (clutch cover), 530069611 (chain tension screw), 530015917 (nuts).
Opening the box, it comes with a heavy duty plastic bar scabbard and carrying case, 2 stroke oil, tool/spark plug-screw driver, manual.
In other reviews chain tension system and jumping off the bar were an issue. I tried to make sure the tension was set properly and the bar lubed. On initial startup and 1st cut was a 5" green oak branch, and the 1st cut was great, I tried a 2nd cut and the chain jumped off the bar. This was mentioned in other reviews and the solution is do a 1st cut then reset the chain tension, a couple more cuts and do another chain tension adjustment. After the 2nd adjustment I worked for 2 hours without another adjustment. Regarding the proper method of setting the chain tension. • Lift the Knob lever and loosen a couple of turns, using the screwdriver tool turn the EZ-Adust screw clockwise until the tension is fairly firm and springy when pull from the bottom of the bar, not loose springy, firm springy. Tighten Knob lever clockwise, before you get it real tight check tension one more time, it might get too tight. If the tension is correct go ahead a add enough turns on the knob lever until is difficult to turn, be-sure and close lever. Remember during the first 15 minutes of use you will need to check tension constantly.
Starting the 35190. There are complaints about starting and idling. First I am going to take a guess, that maybe some of those problems were due to improper mix of 2 stroke oil to gas. This can be in two forms, 1st they didn't mix the gas/oil in a gas container, instead they put gas in the 35190 tank then added oil, the oil/gas will not mix correctly right away, if this is done, it is possible globs of oil could foul the carburetor and valves. 2nd maybe didn't measure properly when mixing gas/oil in a gas container, if too much oil then there will be start and running problems. I happen to have a 1 gal container for my blower, the 2 stroke oil provided in the 35190 box is the exact amount for 1 gal of gas to achieve a 40 to 1 mixture. I had no problems starting the 35190, priming about 8 presses until I saw a little gas in the plastic bulb. Full choke for 2 or 3 pulls, then no choke and 2 pulls later she was running. Once the 35190 is warmed up starting is usually 2 or 3 pulls. I prefer to put 35190 on something solid about knee height and make firm pulls, not hard jerk pulls, it just isn't necessary. After warmed up the 35190 can be started by just holding, but it seems this method is two jerky and is much more difficult to start.
I used the 35190 for about 6 hours with maybe 3 hours of stop start running. I was cutting green giant Oak up to 22" in diameter, from 1" to 22" the 35190 performed great. As long as the chain is sharp the 35190 cutting was effortless. In my opinion there is plenty of power, I just never encountered a situation where the 35190 was straining to cut. Three or four times the 35190 sputter and stopped, but not during cutting it was right after a cut when I let off the gas. I think a couple of times it was due to long idle time. This is a problem with 2 stroke engines, and if you idle a long period the carburetor and plug can foul, so avoid long idles. Chain oil looks like it leaks, but according to the help center this is normal. There is no sensor to stop the oil from flowing once the engine shuts off. So for a few minutes after engine is off the chain oil is still allowing a little oil to flow.
I did hit dirt and sure enough the 35190 chain was dulled from this. When I bought the 35190 I also picked up a chain file guide/file #36561, which is the right one for the 18" 35190, after shaping the chain, the 35190 was back in great cutting shape, cutting effortlessly.
My experience using chainsaws is limited, beside using a small electric for years, on and off I have used several gas saws for either tree removal or firewood. Those chainsaws were either rented or borrowed. In fact my brother-in-law loaned me his 24" Stihl for this project. However after taking it to a local shop to sharpen the chain and test to make sure it started, it just didn't cut, was very heavy, and very difficult to start. I convinced my wife that the 2 cords of oak we were saving $500, so laying out the $150 still netted us $350. She said great, now I can count on you cutting firewood every year and saving us $500, ( We burn about 2 cords a season).
bought it and the chain tensioner broke within 2 cuts and the chain flew off and almost got me, got it replaced, same thing happened, got the tensioner replaced again. now after less than 1 season the thing won't idle and when you try to throttle it up, it dies. so i figured the mixture needed adjusted, but guess what, all there is to adjust the mixture is 2 spline shafts, so you either need a special tool or have to take it in to be serviced. well i managed to adjust the mixture by removing the cover and air cleaner bracket, used a pair of needlenose pliers to tune it in. put it all back together and it ran good for about an hour then same thing. while trying to start it, the rope on the simpul system became undone and wrapped itself around the flywheel, really! what a piece of ****! i think i'm just gonna save myself more trouble and buy another chainsaw that isn't sold by sears. i guess you get what you pay for
Easy to start, however the chains are difficult to keep tight.
entry level light duty saw----lacks power--------too expensive
I have Poulan version of this saw. I really like it, but the saw has two issues. The chain comes loose. This is mostly caused by people who tighten the chain without pulling up on the front tip of the bar. The chain will hold tension decently if you loosen the bar, pull up on the tip of the bar, tension the chain, tighten the bar.
Secondly most of theses saws tend to come with the carburetor set extremely lean making them run poorly and hard to start. Adjusting it requires a special splined socket screwdriver for Weedeater, Poulan, Craftsman. Some people have success adjusting with a red female solderless terminal pushed onto a flat blade screwdriver. If you understand these points, this is perfect for people who only use the saw occasionally, and the sale price is almost impossible to beat.
Well I bought this saw late last year and didn't have much time to use it then, it ran pretty weak for a 42'cc engine and best of all unless you have the proper tool or are willing to send it out it the carb can't be tuned. Also you have to stop about every 10 minutes or so to tighten the chain and if you over torque that thing in the bar a bit too much it will strip out the gear inside and will never hold tight again. Needless to say my patience with it was starting to wear thin. So today after about 15 minutes of use the chain brake failed, I was ok with that I only had to cut some small branch's, then the chain kept jumping off the bar. I took the cover off and the chain had completely chewed through the drive sprocket. I called it a day after that and I went out and got a real chainsaw. It's a good cheap, poorly made chainsaw for a weekend warrior that will only use it to cut up a branch the size of your wrist or smaller every once in a great while.
The Model# 35190, Model# 358341900, Model# 358341950 42cc chain saws will last for one hour when cutting anything bigger than branches. I blew the engine on 7 chainsaws with sears fuel and bar oil. I had a 2005 of the same model and it lasted for 2 years. You will know the engine is starting to seize when it stalls at idle after cutting or bogs out at full throttle even at light loads. On the plus side, Sears has the best return policy as long as its under 3 months old. I keep returning them and getting new ones. I now cut until the engine blows and call it a day. I have cut up 2 out of 3 trees on my property and it should be a total of 10 to 15 chain saws to get the job done. I have been using my friends Husqvarna 240e chain saw as a back up and no problems.
I used this pos 4 times and the chain would never stay on. The no tool tightening is really bad, it didn't work at all and the chain kept flying off. Bought new chains a new bar, called useless technical support help line. I could not reurn it because I only used it once in warranty and then 3 times later. Totally wasted $150. Sears won't burn me again.