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Manage My Life

Kenmore Elite Bottom Freezer Refrigerator #596.73503201

by Manage My Life Last activity date:
May 18th, 2011

Kenmore Elite Bottom Freezer Refrigerator, model #596.73503201

All the food in the freezer melted overnight, completely defrosted. The lights are still on inside the fridge and freezer. I can see and hear it still running though.

I pulled it out from the wall, took off the back panel and vacuumed it out carefully. When I went to plug it back in the capacitor or overload relay area turned bright yellow, and sizzled or sparked. I immediately unplugged it. It has a "burnt" smell to it. That wasn't the problem BEFORE I vacuumed it!

Before I vacuumed it out and plugged it back in, it just wasn't freezing food. Now, I have the burnt smell and it sparked and turned bright yellow? Did I do more damage to it when I vacuumed in and around the compressor? I thought I was being very careful. Should I attempt to plug it back in now that it has sat unplugged for four hours and see what happens? Will I spark or burn again? Can I get shocked or blow out the electrical plug? What did I do to cause that to happen? By the way, the ice maker stopped making ice about a year ago.

Tags:
Air Compressors , Kenmore , Refrigerators , Upright Vacuums , Appliances
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Answers (6)
scott d
I'm sorry you are having this problem with your icemaker. When the technician cycled the icemaker, it should have filled with water. If there is ice in the mold now, it would indicate the icemaker has not cycled again. In this case, it could be a defective icemaker or maybe the temperature in the freezer is not cold enough. If the temperature gets above 10 degrees, the icemaker may not cycle. To check the temperature, place a thermometer between some packages. Air temperature is not a good check.

If there is no ice in the mold, I recommend checking the water supply valve at the wall because if both valves were replaced, the water supply would have to be turned off first. If the water supply is turned on and the icemaker was cycled but there is no water in it, I recommend having the technician come back out to check this.
by scott d
May 18th, 2011
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Manage My Life
Yes, that's the only way to turn it off according to the user's manual. I did that a number of times...but still no ice. I can't hear the water start to fill either. Did he maybe turn off the water supply at the valve? He didn't touch the "faucet" handle at the wall so I know that wasn't turned off. This is so frustrating because he installed the new water valves, overlay and relay and told me I'm good to go just as soon as a new water cartridge was put in. The repairman tested the icemaker by jumping it and I say it cycle completely. I guess he just wants more money to come back out, charge me a service call, charge me for a water filter he ordered at whatever cost that may be even though I already bought one at Sears, charge me to put it in place, and charge me to "magically" turn the water flow back on? Did he tweak something in the front icemaker module or tweak something in the back where the water valve is located just so it will temporarily stop water flow or ice function?
by Manage My Life
May 18th, 2011
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scott d
On this icemaker, the on off switch will be the bail arm (see picture). To turn it off, lift the arm up, until it locks in place. To start it again, just pull the arm down. I hope this helps you. If you would like more assistance, any additional details will be helpful and I will be glad to assist you further.
by scott d
May 9th, 2011
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Thank you Scott. Repairman replaced the overload/relay and installed new water valves. The water filter had never been changed so I got a new one. He said he would "turn off the ice maker temporarily" while waiting for a new water cartridge. He didn't just lift the "arm". He took off the plastic front cover and did something at the module. How and where on the front module do I turn it back on?
by Manage My Life
May 9th, 2011
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scott d
I can understand your concern. It sounds like the starting components have failed. From the description it sounds like they shorted out. This can also be a compressor problem. The compressor may be locked (stuck) and this will put extra strain on the starting components. Cleaning under the unit would not have caused this problem. What probably happened was by turning it off and opening the back panel, gave the compressor a chance to cool down and reset. During the time it was plugged in and not cooling, the compressor was probably trying to start but couldn't. All during this time, when it tries to start, it puts a heavy strain on the starting components and this can cause it to overheat and shut down on an internal overload. When this happens it won't try to start at all, for a long period of time. It can take awhile for the compressor to cool down. This is not a safety problem, it will not catch on fire or hurt anything. Now, with the panel off and cleaning the coils, it probably had enough time to cool and try to restart. The components probably were weak by this time and shorted out. You did nothing to cause this other then just giving it time to cool and attempt to restart. This will not cause a problem with the electrical plug and should not cause you to get shocked but it will not do any good to plug the unit back in. I recommend just leaving it unplugged and having a technician come out to check it. I'm listing a site you can access, to have a tech come out. Here is a link for the website:

Sears Home Services

. I hope this will help you. If you would like more assistance, any additional details will be helpful and I will be glad to assist you further. Thank you for using Manage My Life.
by scott d
April 15th, 2011
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Manage My Life
Refrigerators are the most important appliance in a home because it keeps are food fresh. While you are waiting on an expert to answer your question, a suggestion I have is to visit Sears Home Services website to set service with a Sears technician. I have attached the link below. Hope this helps!
Answered in 8 minutes
by Manage My Life
April 13th, 2011
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