Here are some troubleshooting steps to take before you replace the solenoid water valve:
Make sure that you are getting proper water flow through the water dispenser in the door. If not, then you may have a water supply problem or a clogged water filter.
Check the water tube in the freezer that fills the ice maker. Make sure that it is not frozen. If it is, it will need to be defrosted.
Make sure that the shut off arm on the side of the ice maker is fully placed in the down position. You may try raising it up and then pushing it back to the full down position. The ice maker will not cycle if the arm is even slightly pushed up.
The image below shows a procedure for manually cycling your ice maker. You will need to create an insulated jumper wire to conduct this test. You should only attempt this test procedure if you are completely confident that you can safely complete the process. Unplug the refrigerator and pull the cover off of the front of the ice maker. Find the T and H test points that are used to initiate the test cycle. Follow the procedure in the image to test the ice maker.
If the water valve operates properly and fills the ice maker during the test cycle, then it will not have to be replaced. If it buzzes and does not fill the ice maker, then you could have a failed valve. You can access the valve by unplugging the refrigerator and removing the bottom panel on the back of the refrigerator. Remove the wires from the ice maker water valve. The ice maker water valve has the tan and white wires attached. Using a volt ohm meter, check the resistance across the leads of the water valve. You should read about 300 ohms. If not then the coil is bad and the valve will need to be replaced. If you do read 300 ohms, you may still have a clog or mechanical failure in the valve. You may try switching the wires from the dispenser valve over to the ice maker valve. Plug the refrigerator back in and see if the ice maker will fill when you push the water dispenser lever (you will need to hold the freezer door switch in to conduct this test). Be sure to unplug the refrigerator and switch the wires back to the dispenser valve following this test.
If the water valve is good but is not being energized during the test, then you could have a bad ice maker module or a wiring failure between the module and the water valve. You can check the wiring by measuring the resistance between the test points V and N (with the refrigerator unplugged). You should measure about 300 ohms through this circuit.
Replace the cover on the ice maker when your tests are complete.
If the water valve needs to be replaced, follow these steps:
Unplug the refrigerator to completely disconnect electrical power.
Turn off the water supply to the refrigerator.
Remove the back panel on the bottom of the refrigerator.
Remove the wires from the water valve.
Remove the screw from the bracket that secures the water valve to the refrigerator.
Remove the water tubes from the old valve and attach them to the new valve. To remove the water tubes, you should have to just push in on the collar where the tube attaches to the valve. Some valves may have screw on nuts holding the water lines. The new valve should have fittings that require you to just push the water lines in to connect them. Reattach the wires and screw the bracket back onto the refrigerator.
Turn the water supply back on and check for leaks.
Plug the refrigerator back in and test the operation of the valves and check for leaks.
Replace the back panel on the refrigerator.
If you need to order the water valve, you can get it from the Sears PartsDirect website
. The part number is 4389177.
If you need more help with this repair, resubmit your question with additional details.