The most likely failure is an open thermal fuse and not an open thermal cut-off. If the thermal-cut off opens it will not produce any heat, but it would run.
First, I must assume that you have 220 volts of electricity supplied to the dryer. It should be tested across the two outside terminals at the dryer terminal block. It should also be tested from each outside terminals to the center terminal. The volt meter should measure 220 vac when measuring across the two outside terminals and 110 vac when measuring from each outside terminal to the center terminal.
In order for the dryer to start, timer switch #1 must close contacts BK to BU. There is a thermal fuse and a belt switch wired in series between the timer and the motor. The thermal fuse and the belt switch must be closed/show continuity in order for the L1 line voltage to be present at the motor at M4. Now, the motor must also have Neutral supplied to the motor as well for the motor to run. The neutral circuit begins at the dryer terminal block at the center terminal. The neutral circuit must pass through the door switch when the door is closed, through the push to start switch when itâ€™s pushed and then to terminal 5M at the motor. If the thermal fuse or the belt switch is open/no continuity the motor will not start. If the belt is broken, the motor won't start.
I added the wiring diagram in the image below so you can see the electrical circuit to the motor. In order for the motor to start it needs to have voltage supplied to 4M and neutral at 5M when the door is shut and start pushed.
I do not recommend checking voltages unless you feel confident and safe in doing so. To test the thermal fuse, you can use an ohm meter and check it for continuity
I recommend calling a service technician to diagnose and repair your dryer.