Before checking the heating element, I recommend checking the house breakers or fuses for your dryer. The dryer will power up and run in only one of the 120 volt legs of 240 volt power is supplied to the dryer. If the second leg of 120 volt power is missing, then the dryer will not heat.
If the breakers (fuses) are okay, then I recommend checking the voltage at the outlet using the diagram in the first image below. NOTE: You should only check this live voltage if you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely measure it using a volt/ohm meter.
If the voltage is okay, you can
unplug the dryer
and remove the bottom front service panel as shown in the second image below. To check the heater element, remove one wire and measure the resistance across the leads of the element. You should measure between 7 and 13 ohms. If you measure near zero ohms of resistance or infinite resistance (open), then the heater element will need to be replaced.
If the heater element is okay, you can check the high limit thermostat and the high limit thermostat on the side of the heater box in the same manner. Both of these components should measure near zero ohms of resistance (continuity). If either of these components measures open (infinite resistance), it will need to be replaced.
You can view a parts list diagram of your dryer and order parts on the
If the components above are all okay, you could have a bad thermistor. This component is on the blower housing. It should measure about 10K ohms (10,000 ohms) at room temperature.
You could also have a failed electronic control board, a bad motor centrifugal switch or a wiring failure between components in your dryer that would prevent it from heating.