Before replacing the thermostat, I recommend checking it by following these steps:
Pull the lint screen and make sure that it is clean. Replace it in the housing.
Pull the flexible vent hose behind the dryer and arrange the dryer to that you can measure the temperature of the air coming out of this vent.
Fill the dryer with a medium load of wet laundry.
Set the dryer to run a timed cycle with high heat.
Start the dryer with it venting directly into the laundry room.
Measure the air temperature coming from the middle of the exhaust vent with an accurate thermometer.
The dryer should heat up to about 150 to 155 degrees. It should then cycle the heating element off. The element should cycle back on about 15 to 20 degrees below the temperature that it shut off.
If the dryer is cycling at the proper temperature during this test, then the thermostat is okay. Let the dryer continue to run while venting directly into the room. If it dries normally with the vent hose disconnected, then you could have a restriction in the flexible vent hose or the exhaust duct to the outside of the home that is causing your problem. Check these issues.
If the dryer heats up to about 250 degrees and then shuts off for a while, this indicates that you have a failed thermostat and the dryer is cycling on the high limit thermostat. The operating thermostat (part 3387134) will need to be replaced. This thermostat is located on the blower housing. You can access it by
unplugging the dryer
and removing the back panel. The thermostat is located where the thermistor is shown in the image below (your dryer has a thermostat instead of thermistor).
You can order parts for this dryer from the
If the heating element never shuts off and it heats constantly, you could have a shorted heating element.
These tips should help you diagnose and repair the cause of your dryer problem. If you need more help, resubmit your question with additional details.