Your details seem to imply that the drive motor is not running even though the dryer is heating. If the motor is not running and the dryer is heating then you could have a blown thermal fuse that is preventing the dryer from running. You also likely have a shorted heating element that is heating constantly that caused the thermal fuse to blow. A failed motor centrifugal switch could also cause the element to heat when the dryer is not running. In this situation, you would likely need to replace both the heating element and the thermal fuse (or the drive motor). The heating element will normally not heat unless the dryer is running. The wiring diagram for your dryer is shown in the image below. During normal operation, the circuit traced by the red and green lines is completed through the element to provide 240 volts of potential and the element will heat. The green leg of voltage through the motor centrifugal switch is normally only completed when the motor is running. If the motor is not running then this contact (1M to 2M) could be shorted and causing the element to heat without the motor running. You could also have a short to the metal cabinet in the heating element that is allowing the element to heat constantly since the red (L1) leg of voltage could then be passing through the element and to the cabinet ground which would cause the element to heat without the motor running. This is why the thermal fuse and the element (or the motor centrifugal switch) would have to be replaced if the dryer is heating but the motor is not running. (The motor centrifugal switch is not available as a separate component -- the entire motor assembly would have to be replaced if this switch is bad.) NOTE: I do not recommend that you check voltages to determine the failed components. You can
unplug the dryer
and check for continuity (near zero ohms of resistance) through the motor contacts 1M and 2M to determine if the motor centrifugal switch is bad. You can check the resistance through the heating element leads to check the element. The heating element will normally measure about 7 to 14 ohms of resistance. If you check each lead to the cabinet ground, you should measure Ol (open load or infinite resistance). If you measure resistance between one of the leads and the metal cabinet of the dryer then the heating element is shorted to the cabinet and will need to be replaced.
If the motor is running but the drum is not turning, then the drive belt in the dryer is likely broken.
I provided access information for this dryer in the second and third images. Remove the back panel to access the thermal fuse. Be sure that you
unplug the dryer
to disconnect electrical power before accessing internal components. Metal edges inside the dryer can be sharp. Protective gloves are recommended.
You can order parts from the
If you need more help, resubmit your question with additional details.
If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website:
Sears Home Services