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What does error code E1-F2 mean for my Kenmore stove/oven. Serial number RK4516726?

What does error code E1-F2 mean for my Kenmore stove/oven. Serial number RK4516726?

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Kenmore , Wall Ovens , Appliances
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3 Answers from these members:
scott d
This error code indicates a stuck or shorted key. To check which is causing the problem, disconnect power from the unit and check the connections on the keypad. Plug the cord back in and see if the code is still there. If it disappears it was probably a poor connection but if it remains disconnect the power again. Now disconnect the wire harness from the keypad and reconnect power to the unit. If the code remains the control has a short and will need to be replaced. If it disappears the keypad will need to be replaced. For more specific information, please resubmit your question with a complete model number and any additional details.
by scott d Earned 139,392 community points in Appliances
May 11th, 2010
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Manage My Life
you probably don't need to replace any parts to solve this problem. E1 -F2- = the keytail (connector ribbon) that plugs into the control board is not making good contact. first unplug your range and then remove the two screws on the underside of the back-splash controls panel to access the back of the control board. now simply cut a slip of heavy paper such as a business card to the width of the ribbon and slide it into the slot along with the ribbon connector. that will help press the contacts on the other side together snuggly. screw the back-splash back in place, plug in your range, and the problem might vanish. if the error code returns, try pulling out the connector, cleaning the contacts with a pencil eraser, reinserting it into the slot and repeat above with the paper.

the paper trick worked for me for about two weeks, then the problem happened again. the next fix I tried was to unplug the keytail (the ribbon connector) from the slot on the control panel. there is a clip in each side of the black plastic receptacle (the place where the keytail plugs in on the electronics control board). pres them inward to separate the top portion of the receptacle, which I think helps to clamp the keytail into the bottom portion. the top and bottom fit tightly together, so you might need to use a small screwdriver at the joint to pry them apart, however, I did not find it necessary to remove that clamp in order to remove or replace the keytail on mine.

smoke and other sticky cooking fumes cling to the contact wires on the keytail and the pins in the receptacle (as well as other surfaces) and that buildup interferes with the electrical connection they need to make. once the keytail is free, clean it well with a mild cleanser (I used a slightly soapy, damp dish sponge) and dry it with a clean paper towel. (to be continued...)
by Manage My Life
November 18th, 2010
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Manage My Life
(... continued) FYI, one side of the keytail has the exposed wires which make contact with pins in the receptacle on the control board. the exposed side is on the inside surface of the curled keytail ribbon, the outside surface is translucent plastic insulation (you can feel that the outside is smoother than the inside because the inside has the contact wires exposed). the inside is the side you want to make sure is clean because those are the wires that need to make electrical contact with the pins in the receptacle.

next, use sharp scissors to carefully trim a small uniform strip (roughly 1/16 of an inch or less) off the end of the keytail. then plug it in again (remembering to use the top portion of the receptacle to secure it in if you had removed it). doing this provides a fresh spot on the exposed wires to make contact with the pins in the receptacle. my theory is that over time the wires wear out at the points where they make contact with the pins. trimming the edge allows you to insert the keytail deeper into the receptacle and therefore, the pins will contact the wires in the keytail at a new, unworn spot. it's been over a week now and so far, it seems to have fixed the problem on my stove. if I get the error message again in the future, my next step will be to try paper trick again (at least as a temporary solution), but I doubt it will be necessary any time soon.

be sure to try all other solutions first before ordering any parts. I first changed the control board for $125 and there was no change. then I ordered the touchpad, but ended up fixing the problem before it arrived. I sent the touchpad part back to Sears Parts Direct after I figured out I didn't need it and they eventually refunded $15 less than I'd paid. of that difference, $13 and change was for shipping, so the other dollar plus must have been a miscalculation or a restocking charge or something, but I didn't bother following up to find out.

good luck with your repair.
by Manage My Life
November 18th, 2010
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