If an electric dryer is running then the thermal fuse is okay.
First don't overlook the circuit breakers to the dryer. It is possible for one of the two breakers to trip leaving the dryer 120 volts to run with but not have 240 volts to heat with. Turn each of the dryer's breakers off and then back on.
There are three other parts beside the timer, motor switch or element that might prevent the dryer from heating.
The thermostat, next to the thermal fuse, the hi-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off. The hi-limit and thermal cutoff are located on the heater box.
All three can be checked for continuity/resistance if you have access to a volt/ohm meter and are comfortable using it.
If you have no meter there is another way if caution is used.
Remember to unplug the dryer first.
The idea would be to bypass the thermostat, hi-limit or thermal cutoff one at a time and see if the dryer will heat.
Start with the control thermostat on the blower housing next to the thermal fuse. There will be two heavy red wires and a couple of smaller violet wires. With the dryer unplugged remove the two heavy red wires and join them together. A small insulated wire works best. With the wires joined the thermostat is bypassed. Then carefully plug the dryer in and run it to see if it will heat. If it heats the thermostat is the problem. If it doesn't heat then the thermal cut-off and hi-limit can be checked the same way.
The timer, motor switch and element can not be checked this way.
I hope this information is helpful to you. If there are any additional details then I may be able to help you further.