There is a thermal cut-off fuse that is attached to the side of the heater box that would prevent the dryer from heating. I provided photographs and technical information on this dryer in the images below. Before opening the dryer and checking that fuse, I recommend that you check the house electrical breakers (or house fuses) for the dryer outlet. The dryer will run if only one of the 120 volts legs of 240 volt electrical power (red leg shown below) is provided to the dryer. If the second leg of 120 volt power (traced in green) is missing then the dryer will not heat. If the breaker is okay and you have a volt/ohm meter and the ability to safely use it, you can check the voltage at your dryer outlet as shown in the second image below. NOTE: You should only measure this live outlet voltage if you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely check it using a volt/ohm meter.
If the dryer has 240 volt power at the outlet, I recommend that you
unplug the dryer
and bypass the heater relay to check the thermal cut-off fuse and other components that could prevent the dryer from heating. The third image below shows how to access the components in the console of this dryer. The first image shows a photograph of the consoled hinged back into the service position. The heater relay is shown with the solid red wires circled in green. If you pull the red wires and connect them as shown and then tape them will electrical tape (also shown in the photographs), you can reassemble the dryer and start it in a heated cycle to see if the heating element will work. If it does, then the heater relay, the control board or the thermistor (temperature sensor) could be preventing the dryer from heating. NOTE: Do not run the dryer more than a couple of minutes with the heater relay bypassed since it will not cycle off properly. _Unplug the dryer and return the heater relay to its original configuration as soon as this brief test is completed. Check the wiring connections of the red/white wires between the heater relay and the control board. You can check the resistance of the thermistor from the control board (traced in blue on the wiring diagram). At room temperature, the resistance of the thermistor should be around 10K ohms (10,000 ohms). If the resistance is way off (over 1000 ohms) then you may need to replace the thermistor. The location of the thermistor is shown along with access pictures in the first image below. A failed thermistor will normally cause the dryer to quit running so this is not your likely failed component but it is worth checking. If the thermistor is okay, I recommend that you try replacing the heater relay (part 3405281). You can order this part from the
website. It costs just over $40. If you still have the same problem after replacing the heater relay then you will likely need to replace the control board (part W10116565). This control board costs close to $100. This should help you fix your heating problem if the heater works with the relay bypassed.
If the dryer does not heat with the heater relay bypassed, then you have a problem with one of the components in the heater circuit traced in red and green. You could also have a wiring failure in the circuit. You can
unplug the dryer
and check the resistance through the heating element, the high limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off fuse using the information shown below. With the wires removed, you should measure between 7.8 and 11.8 ohms of resistance through the heating element. You should measure near zero ohms of resistance through the high limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off fuse on the heater box. If any of these components are "open" (measure Ol -- open load or infinite resistance) then they will need to be replaced. If the thermal cut-off fuse is blown then the high limit thermostat will need to be replaced at the same time since it should have opened to protect the thermal cut-off fuse from blowing.
These tips should help you determine the cause of your heating failure in the dryer. This is a complicated system to accurately diagnose and repair (even for some technicians). If you need more help, submit additional details and we will assist you further.
NOTE: Do not attempt any test described above unless you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely complete it.
Unplug the dryer
before accessing internal components.
If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website:
Sears Home Services