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Kenmore electric dryer mod. 110.63942101 heating element not heating. Where in cabinet is fuse/circuit breaker for this

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Dryers , Kenmore , Washers
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Manage My Life
I understand your having problems with your Kenmore Electric Dryer. I found a question in Manage My Life under the Answers button that was similar to the one you asked. I think this question will give you some useful information, while your waiting on an expert answer. I attached the link below, I hope this helps!!!!!!
by Manage My Life
September 4th, 2010
Answered in 13 minutes
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Lyle W
There is a thermal cut-off fuse that is attached to the side of the heater box that would prevent the dryer from heating. I provided photographs and technical information on this dryer in the images below. Before opening the dryer and checking that fuse, I recommend that you check the house electrical breakers (or house fuses) for the dryer outlet. The dryer will run if only one of the 120 volts legs of 240 volt electrical power (red leg shown below) is provided to the dryer. If the second leg of 120 volt power (traced in green) is missing then the dryer will not heat. If the breaker is okay and you have a volt/ohm meter and the ability to safely use it, you can check the voltage at your dryer outlet as shown in the second image below. NOTE: You should only measure this live outlet voltage if you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely check it using a volt/ohm meter.

If the dryer has 240 volt power at the outlet, I recommend that you

unplug the dryer

and bypass the heater relay to check the thermal cut-off fuse and other components that could prevent the dryer from heating. The third image below shows how to access the components in the console of this dryer. The first image shows a photograph of the consoled hinged back into the service position. The heater relay is shown with the solid red wires circled in green. If you pull the red wires and connect them as shown and then tape them will electrical tape (also shown in the photographs), you can reassemble the dryer and start it in a heated cycle to see if the heating element will work. If it does, then the heater relay, the control board or the thermistor (temperature sensor) could be preventing the dryer from heating. NOTE: Do not run the dryer more than a couple of minutes with the heater relay bypassed since it will not cycle off properly. _Unplug the dryer and return the heater relay to its original configuration as soon as this brief test is completed. Check the wiring connections of the red/white wires between the heater relay and the control board. You can check the resistance of the thermistor from the control board (traced in blue on the wiring diagram). At room temperature, the resistance of the thermistor should be around 10K ohms (10,000 ohms). If the resistance is way off (over 1000 ohms) then you may need to replace the thermistor. The location of the thermistor is shown along with access pictures in the first image below. A failed thermistor will normally cause the dryer to quit running so this is not your likely failed component but it is worth checking. If the thermistor is okay, I recommend that you try replacing the heater relay (part 3405281). You can order this part from the

Sears PartsDirect

website. It costs just over $40. If you still have the same problem after replacing the heater relay then you will likely need to replace the control board (part W10116565). This control board costs close to $100. This should help you fix your heating problem if the heater works with the relay bypassed.

If the dryer does not heat with the heater relay bypassed, then you have a problem with one of the components in the heater circuit traced in red and green. You could also have a wiring failure in the circuit. You can

unplug the dryer

and check the resistance through the heating element, the high limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off fuse using the information shown below. With the wires removed, you should measure between 7.8 and 11.8 ohms of resistance through the heating element. You should measure near zero ohms of resistance through the high limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off fuse on the heater box. If any of these components are "open" (measure Ol -- open load or infinite resistance) then they will need to be replaced. If the thermal cut-off fuse is blown then the high limit thermostat will need to be replaced at the same time since it should have opened to protect the thermal cut-off fuse from blowing.

These tips should help you determine the cause of your heating failure in the dryer. This is a complicated system to accurately diagnose and repair (even for some technicians). If you need more help, submit additional details and we will assist you further.

NOTE: Do not attempt any test described above unless you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely complete it.

Unplug the dryer

before accessing internal components.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website:

Sears Home Services

.
by Lyle W Earned 3,227 community points in Washers
September 6th, 2010
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Manage My Life
I have the same problem but the thermostat keeps burning out
i have replace the pair on the ellment tube at lease 3 or 4 times in the pass year
this time i replace the thermostat it lasted about 30 min it burn out
can you help me on this
the vent pipe is clean /cleared and no kinks \
thank you
dennis
by Manage My Life
March 5th, 2011
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Lyle W
For Dennis: It sounds like you are indicating that the thermal cut-off fuse on the side of the heater box keeps blowing. You also seem to indicate that you replaced the operating thermostat during this last repair. I recommend that you UNPLUG the dryer and check the heating element for a short to the cabinet ground. This could be causing the element to heat constantly. Remove one wire from the element (with the dryer UNPLUGGED) and first check the resistance through both leads on the element. You should measure between 7 and 13 ohms of resistance, Check the resistance between the element lead that has the wire removed and the bare metal on the heater box beside that lead. You should measure Ol (open load or infinite resistance). Replace the first wire and pull the other wire off. Repeat the above test. If you detect resistance between either of the heater element leads and the metal cabinet, then you will need to replace the heating element in the dryer. This may fix your problem. If not, you may need to replace all 3 thermostats at once. If you have the exact dryer that is shown in the above answer, then that dryer will have a thermistor (temperature sensor) instead of an operating thermostat. Check the resistance of that component. It should read around 10K ohms. If that component is bad, it will need to be replaced. You can order parts online from the Sears PartsDirect.com website. There is a link for that website in the answer provided above. In the dryer described above, you could also have a heater relay this is stuck in the closed position that would cause the heating element to be on constantly. Check to see if the dryer heats on a cycle that does not use any heat. If it does, then the heater relay or the control board may need to be replaced. If you need more help, reply with additional details and the full model number of your dryer.
by Lyle W Earned 3,227 community points in Washers
March 7th, 2011
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Manage My Life
My Kenmore Elite dryer model 110.60992990 operates normally for a few minutes, then stops. The drum is extremely hard to turn manually. Dryer will not power on until it has cooled off. About to try and check the belt, drum and motor.
by Manage My Life
September 21st, 2012
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Lyle W
It sounds like you are on the right track since you detected difficulty in turning the dryer drum by hand. You can UNPLUG the dryer and open the cabinet as shown in the link that I provided below. You will probably find a problem with the drive system once you open up that cabinet. Let us know if you need more help.
by Lyle W Earned 3,227 community points in Washers
September 21st, 2012
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