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Kenmore Calypso washer 110.24082200 is running intermittently during wash/rinse cycles.

My Kenmore Automatic Washer (110.2082200) is 8 years old and has always given great service. However, for the last two weeks, it has been starting/stopping/starting/stopping over and over during various portions of the wash and/or rinse cycles. To be more specific, it will run for two seconds, then stop for three seconds, run for three seconds then stop for four seconds, etc. -- totally at random. The first time this happened, I thought maybe the computer board needed a "hard reset", so I unplugged the machine for a couple of minutes, plugged it back in and it resumed working just fine. But within a couple of days it was back to it's "on again, off again" routine and unplugging from the outlet hasn't made any difference since. Curiously, I've also noticed that sometimes the L.E.D. timer will continue counting down the minutes remaining in the cycle, and at other times the display will freeze on a particular number and stop running. Can you help me diagnose the problem and provide me with a remedy that I can perform myself?

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Kenmore , Washers
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Manage My Life
Thanks very much, Lyle. As a matter of fact, I did finally cave in after more than two months of frustration and had a Sears repairman come out and take a look. His diagnosis was two bad control boards. With a total repair cost of $468 staring us in the face, we loaded up the kids in the car yesterday and bought a new Whirlpool Cabrio -- delivered today for just a hair over $600. But we still owed the technician almost $200 for the service call. $800 dollars spent yesterday and we still don't know for certain what was wrong. Without intending to sound melodramatic, I think this is a perfect example of how to give "free market enterprise" a bad name. Build a product that everybody needs, but that has no durability. Then make it so difficult and expensive to repair that consumers have no choice but to buy again. It's the perfect way to convince people that capitalism doesn't work. And I'M a self-employed entrepreneur who can't afford to let down my own customers this way! Forgive me for venting...

Chris in Florida
by Manage My Life
August 2nd, 2011
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Lyle W
Fred is on vacation. I will try to help you further with this problem. I verified that the washer does only have the 1 operating pressure switch. I read through the posts and suspect that your failure is not caused by a problem with the water level pressure switch. According to your description, this problem is usually caused by a bad universal joint in the drive system of the washer. I recommend that you have a service technician diagnose and repair that type of problem. The universal joint kit costs around $200. A spanner wrench would be needed to replace that component. It is difficult to definitely confirm the failure of that component. I provided a procedure for accessing the universal joint in this washer even though I do not recommend that you attempt that procedure. If the washer is not reassembled properly, you will wind up with problems in the drive system that are similar to what you are already describing. In my opinion, it will probably be more practical to replace this washer instead of repairing it if it does have a universal joint failure. If you are confident that you can fix this problem yourself, then you can try replacing that universal joint (part 285927). You can order that part from the Sears PartsDirect.com website (see first link below). If you decide to have a technician repair the washer, you can schedule service using the second link shown below.
by Lyle W Earned 2,989 community points in Kenmore
August 2nd, 2011
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Manage My Life
Sorry for the nearly month-long delay in responding, Fred -- been extremely busy. With regards to trying the "one last trick" you mentioned above, I'm a little confused. You suggest bypassing the flood switch by disconnecting it's two wires and connecting them to one another. But I don't even SEE the flood switch -- only a switch labeled "OPR". How should I proceed?
by Manage My Life
July 30th, 2011
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Fred M
The newer models only had one switch. If you replace the control then the new control will only have a place for the operating switch. The "flood" switch wash eliminated and the control board took over that function. One last trick. The flood switch has two wires. Remove them and join them together to bypass the flood switch.

If the problem presists then the operating pressure switch or the control is at fault.
by Fred M Earned 3,532 community points in Kenmore
July 2nd, 2011
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Manage My Life
Hi Fred... Opened up the washer per your instructions, and blew thru the hose connected to the pressure switch labeled (OPR). I met with only slight resistance for a moment, then it seemed to clear. Not sure what the "air dome" is that you mentioned earlier, should that have been obvious? After clearing the hose, I ran the "Rinse/Spin" test again and got what I think was identical results to before. The clock started at 26 minutes and the tub filled and drained four times until the 8 minute mark, at which point a hi-speed spin began and ran to the end. No error codes. Two curious things I did notice however: First, each time the tub filled, water ran thru the detergent reservoir per normal but on the third fill, water also ran thru the fabric softener "dish". 2nd, after removing the console cover and getting a good look underneath, I noticed that unlike the schematic you sent me, my washer has only one pressure switch, labeled "OPR". I did not see a second one labeled "FLO". Is this important?
by Manage My Life
June 29th, 2011
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Fred M
The images below will help get you into the console to access the pressure switch. Remember to unplug the washer first.
by Fred M Earned 3,532 community points in Kenmore
June 29th, 2011
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Manage My Life
OK, then it sounds like I need to go ahead with your last suggestion and try clearing the hose and air dome. Is there a schematic available to help me "raise the console" and identify the pressure switch, etc.?
by Manage My Life
June 29th, 2011
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Fred M
The 2nd rinse would add that to an existing cycle. The extended spin will add time to an existing cycle. Rinse/Spin should have got you the rinse cycle.
by Fred M Earned 3,532 community points in Kenmore
June 28th, 2011
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Manage My Life
Well, the first part of your last response has me wondering if I performed the correct "rinse only" test. You see, those exact words don't show up anywhere on our console touchpad. The closest we have is a single button that "toggles" between three options: "2nd Rinse, Extended Spin, Rinse/Spin". I chose the latter but maybe that was incorrect? Could that be why I got multiple fills and drains?
by Manage My Life
June 28th, 2011
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Manage My Life
Well, the first part of your last response has me wondering if I performed the correct "rinse only" test. You see, those exact words don't show up anywhere on our console touchpad. The closest we have is a single button that "toggles" between three options: "2nd Rinse, Extended Spin, Rinse/Spin". I chose the latter but maybe that was incorrect? Could that be why I got multiple fills and drains?
by Manage My Life
June 28th, 2011
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Manage My Life
Well, the first part of your last response now has me wondering if I performed the correct "rinse only" test. The console on the front doesn't actually show those particular words anywhere. The closest it comes is a touchpad that toggles between "2nd Rinse, Extended Spin, Rinse/Spin". I chose the latter option for the test. Was that incorrect? Could that be why I got multiple fills and drains?
by Manage My Life
June 28th, 2011
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Fred M
This is a puzzle. My thought is the pressure switch is the cause of the problem. The rinse only cycle should only fill, wash, drain and spin. The multiple fills and drains you describe sould like the suds routine the control performs when excessive suds are detected.

One thing to try first is to raise the console and access the pressure switch. With the tub empty remove the hose and blow through it towards the tub. Do this to clear out the hose and air dome. The W10311359 pressure switch is about $50 dollars.

This would explain the washers actions and why we don't see an error code.

Try this and let me know how it goes.
by Fred M Earned 3,532 community points in Kenmore
June 28th, 2011
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Manage My Life
Fred: Just as you suggested, running the machine on "rinse only" while empty resulted in three maybe four rounds of "fill, agitate and drain" for the first 15 minutes or so. The last nine minutes of the cycle were then spent in high speed spins. But again, I got no error codes on the display -- only the countdown timer. I'm completely puzzled. It seems to be passing the tests with flying colors but still stops/starts constantly when running regular loads. My wife assures me that her loads are balanced -- that she's not doing anything differently now than she did for the first 8 years we owned the machine. Thanks for sticking with me thru this, by the way. :)
by Manage My Life
June 27th, 2011
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Fred M
If it is spinning with no error codes then that is good. Just one more test just to simplifly things. Try to run a rinse only cycle. It should just fill, agiatate, drain and spin. Try it empty and tell me what happens.
by Fred M Earned 3,532 community points in Kenmore
June 25th, 2011
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Manage My Life
Fred: You can disregard my question immediately above. :) I just finished performing two "extended spin" tests and both had nearly identical results. The tub slowly ramped up speed until the 6 min. mark, stopped, ran a few seconds, stopped, then resumed a high speed spin until the 1 minute mark. It then stopped, re-started and spun slowly for the last 20-30 seconds of the test. As I said, both runs were nearly identical with one exception. At the conclusion of the second test, I got a series of beep signals and a green "clothes clean" indicator light. That did NOT occur at the end of the first test.

Whaddya think?
by Manage My Life
June 25th, 2011
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Manage My Life
Hi Fred... To perform the "extended spin" test, do I first need to perform the "key dance" as in the previous two tests?
by Manage My Life
June 25th, 2011
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Fred M
If the washer nutated and added water but did not spin then I suspect the control is at fault. One additional thing to try is to select the "extended spin" option. Do not select a cycle. If "exteneded spin" is selected then the washer should give you an eight minute high speed spin. Let me know what happens.
by Fred M Earned 3,532 community points in Kenmore
June 25th, 2011
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Manage My Life
Hi Fred:

Been away for a couple of days but just tried the first two diagnostic tests as you suggested. I kept the lid closed throughout both tests, but it did not appear to me that the tub spun in either one. Where would you suggest I go from here?

Thanks for your patience!
Chris
by Manage My Life
June 23rd, 2011
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Fred M
What is odd is that you're having problems like this but you don't mention any error codes.

This washer is suppose to be smart enough to tell us what it thinks is wrong. The lack of an error code might indicate a control board problem.

After eight trouble free years you are motivated to fix this problem and I believe I can help you.

To begin first lets run some diagnostic test. The image below will help with this. You can try the drain/spin test first and then try the 99 second test.

The basket should turn for 40 seconds in the drain/spin test.

You can reply with any additional details and we'll proceed from there.
by Fred M Earned 3,532 community points in Kenmore
June 18th, 2011
Answered in 17 hours
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Manage My Life
Thanks, Aashe -- I'll check it out.
by Manage My Life
June 17th, 2011
Answered in 23 minutes
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Manage My Life
I can see how frustrating this would be for you, especially when you need to use the machine. While you are waiting for your expert answer, I have found a link that will provide some information and troubleshooting for the problem. I hope this will help you.
by Manage My Life
June 17th, 2011
Answered in 9 minutes
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