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Maytag washer soak cycle

why won't my maytag fill water during the soak cycle?

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Maytag , Washers
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34 Answers from these members:
Joey S
Nancy: There is no "reset" button or fuse on this model washer. It could have a faulty machine control unit (MCU) or it could have a faulty user interface. I recommend calling a service technician with the proper equipment and knowledge to properly diagnose and repair your washer.
by Joey S Earned 1,958 community points in Washers
January 30th, 2013
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Is there a reset button on this washer # 11042824-2000
by Manage My Life
January 29th, 2013
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I have a kenmore elite mod #11042824-2000 . The panel lights go on but nothing else works. no noise no nothing. can anyone help
by Manage My Life
January 29th, 2013
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Thanks Joey, same to you.
by Manage My Life
December 23rd, 2011
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Joey S
Ken: I wish you the best of luck and have a happy holiday.
by Joey S Earned 1,958 community points in Washers
December 23rd, 2011
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Okay, after it finishes I'll pull the water valve out a bit to see if there's a possible grounding or worn wire or something in the fill circuit. In the meantime I performed an exorcism on the washer, more of cleansing of its circuitry. This should take care of it.
Thanks again
by Manage My Life
December 23rd, 2011
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Joey S
Ken: Maybe it is a timer issue.
by Joey S Earned 1,958 community points in Washers
December 23rd, 2011
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Joey S
Ken: Since it’s popping the fuse during the fill cycle then it could be related to the new water inlet valve or an issue with the fill circuit. Since it seems to fill Okay at times without blowing the fuse then it may have wire in the fill circuit shorting to ground at times. Intermittent problems are the hardest ones to pin point.
by Joey S Earned 1,958 community points in Washers
December 23rd, 2011
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Okay, so running/filling with a load now it quit without popping the fuse. So it either quits and without popping the fuse or it quits via popping the fuse but always just short of finishing fill up cycle. My wife's really rolling her eyes on this one, hahaha.
by Manage My Life
December 23rd, 2011
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Manage My Life
When this first started happening a month ago I put a new water valve in, than I posted on manage my life and you said it was most likely the fuse which it was, than the switch which it seems to be also. I'm thinking the timer also. Oh, it just popped another fuse during fill up. Replaced the fuse running again. So it completes one load and pops on the fill up in the second load. Maytag frankenstein, lol.
by Manage My Life
December 23rd, 2011
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Joey S
Ken: It could possibly be the timer causing it to stop running if the fuse is not blown and the lid switch is working correctly. If could be the water valve causing the fuse to blow if the fuse is blowing while filling.
by Joey S Earned 1,958 community points in Washers
December 23rd, 2011
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Joey, it popped another fuse during fill up with a full load, I think the fuse had my oil from my fingers on the glass. Replaced the 4 amp fuse careful not to touch the glass part of fuse, it started running again than quit and the fuse was okay. I pulled out the new switch put the old switch, the old switch didn't work. So I hooked the new switch back, but held it and pushed the white plunger on the bottom of the switch with a screwdriver and it worked. I set it back in the washer and aligned the lid arm in the slot between the white and red button and it's going now. I did that before and it quit without popping the fuse. You think the timer is causing intermittent stopping? Maytag LAT8504AAE.
by Manage My Life
December 23rd, 2011
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Manage My Life
There was a load in, I'll ask my wife. I was not by the washer when it blew. Being off balance load might be an issue. I'll monitor the new fuse. I'll check again for wires grounding somewhere. Thanks again.
by Manage My Life
December 21st, 2011
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Joey S
Ken: I have never heard of the fuse to blow in a new lid switch assembly unless when the washer is spinning and it’s off balanced and it beating on the lid switch assembly. Replace the fuse with a 4 amp fuse and then you will likely need to monitor the operation and find out what is the washer doing at the time the fuse blows. It could have a wire touching ground or the lid switch assembly is faulty. At this moment it will be very difficult for me to say with any certainty why the fuse did not blow at the beginning of the cycle unless it was related to an off balance load. Did you have a load in it when it blew? Was it off balanced?
by Joey S Earned 1,958 community points in Washers
December 21st, 2011
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Joey, I got #22001682 today and installed it. It made it about 3/4 way through the cycle and popped the fuse on the switch. What next? Oh yeah, model # LAT8504AAE Maytag.
by Manage My Life
December 21st, 2011
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Joey S
Ken: You are welcome. Thanks for spreading the news about Manage My Life.
by Joey S Earned 1,958 community points in Washers
December 16th, 2011
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Awesome, many thanks again. I will order the part. I've been telling others about this site, I'm glad Sears has it.
thanks again
by Manage My Life
December 16th, 2011
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Joey S
Ken: One of the lid switches is not opening before the other one is closing causing the fuse to blow. If you look at the wiring diagram I added in an earlier post you will see the fuse. If both lid switches happen to be closed at the same time voltage will be routed to the fuse and it will blow. One side of the fuse is connected to Neutral. You will need to replace the lid switch assembly with part #22001682 which is a completely new type of lid switch assembly that will resolve the fuse blowing.
by Joey S Earned 1,958 community points in Washers
December 16th, 2011
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Manage My Life
This is for Joey S. Hi man I'm back. Okay on the Maytag washer you helped me fix a couple weeks ago for model # LAT8504AAE. The new fuse blew. Is there something in the diagram you sent me causing a surge in volts or something inherent to popping fuses?
thank you
by Manage My Life
December 15th, 2011
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Manage My Life
Ok thank you
by Manage My Life
December 10th, 2011
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Joey S
Brandon: There is an electronic motor control board, drive motor and the drain pump all located just above the base of the washer. If water migrated into any one it could be causing the "F11" code. There should be technical data sheet and wiring diagram located behind the lower access panel. The "F11" code indicates a communication problem between the motor control board and the central control board. I would let the washer components dry completely before attempting to use the washer. Unplug the washer and let it dry. If it continues to display F11, it may need a motor, motor control and maybe a drain pump. I added an image of the fault codes below.
by Joey S Earned 1,958 community points in Washers
December 10th, 2011
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I have a kenmore model #110 42822 201 and i am looking for a wiring diagram for it. Its displaying a F 11 code and is not draining. F11 code says its a electical problem. The basement had 3-4 inches of water in it a few days ago and i am thinking either the pump motor or micro computer is fried due to the water. Cant seem to find a wiring diagram anywhere though. Didn't know if you could help. Thanks
by Manage My Life
December 10th, 2011
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Joey S
Karen: I would need to know the model number of your Maytag washer in order to know what type of washer you have. If it smelled like burning rubber then it may have something in the pump which may have caused it to jam. It could also be a mechanical failure in the gear case or braking mechanism. Reply with the model number for model specific information.
by Joey S Earned 1,958 community points in Washers
December 10th, 2011
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I have a Maytag washer that is about 11 years old, for the last cople weeks when in a cycle it would make a grinding sound. then on wednesday of this week it had filled up to wash but did not start washing I could smell something burning. could you tell me what to look for to see how to fix it. I cannon afford a tech to come to my house.
by Manage My Life
December 10th, 2011
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Joey S
Paul: If the washer died in the middle of the cycle and no lights are displayed on the console then it sounds like the machine control board is not getting voltage or the machine control board is faulty. In order to confirm if the machine control is faulty will require removing the top of the washer and checking the voltage supply to the machine control board. There are a few screws on the back of the top to take out before the top can be slid back and lifted off. The voltage supply will need to be checked across the two wires connected at "IF2" connector. If voltage is present then I would suspect a faulty machine control board. I do not recommend checking voltage unless you have experience and feel safe and confident in doing so; otherwise I highly recommend calling a service technician to diagnose and repair your washer. NOTE: You can use the emergency release pull tab located on the bottom of the door lock assembly to unlock the door. You will need to remove the lower access panel and reach up behind the front panel and located under the door lock is pull tab/ring. Pull it down and then you can open the door. Be sure to disconnect the power cord from the power source before removing the lower access panel.
by Joey S Earned 1,958 community points in Washers
December 10th, 2011
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I have kenmore he2 plus 110.4751* model. It has no power. In the middle of wash cycle, it stopped working. Now the door is locked with clothes inside and no power. I checked the circuit breaker and also check the electric out let by plugging in something else and no issues there.

Can you please guide what could be wrong or how to identify problem?

thanks,

Paul
by Manage My Life
December 10th, 2011
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Manage My Life
Joey, dude, you are the man. The fuse was it. A five pack of fuses cost me $1.78. What a deal. Thanks a bunch, good job.
by Manage My Life
December 2nd, 2011
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Manage My Life
Joey, downloaded the schematic, will work through this. Thanks for your help.
by Manage My Life
November 30th, 2011
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Joey S
Ken: If the lid switch is working and no one as altered the wiring then it may not be filling because of a faulty water level pressure switch, timer, temperature switch or break in the wiring. I added a wiring diagram in the image below. I traced the fill circuit it red and green. The green circuit represents the Neutral and red is the line voltage. I hope this helps. You may want to check the fuse that is shown in series between the water level pressure switch and water valve. The fuse is actually on the lid switch assembly. I recommend calling a service technician to diagnose and repair your washer.
by Joey S Earned 1,958 community points in Washers
November 30th, 2011
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For some reason the problem was explained wrong or something. I have no water coming into the basket in the washer period. Both hoses produce water when disconnected from the valve. No water fills in any cycle and it doesn't start in the start cycle. It spins when you turn the timer to different locations, I believe it is the timer, I could not find any loose connections as I took the panel off the other day. When you turn the timer to start pull the knob nothing happens or to the load size indicator and pull the knob nothing happens. Help! Thank you.
by Manage My Life
November 30th, 2011
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Joey S
Ken: Thanks for replying with the model number. If the washer will fill with hot and cold water durring the wash fills then replacing the water inlet valve is not neccessary. The most likely failure is the timer or a loose wire connection at the timer.
by Joey S Earned 1,958 community points in Washers
November 30th, 2011
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Okay, the Maytag model number, this is from memory is LAT8504AAE. I ordered the inlet valve assembly to replace. Starting from the possible obvious choice. I'm receiving the valve today from Sears will install it this afternoon.
Let me know what you think it might be?
by Manage My Life
November 29th, 2011
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Joey S
Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

As Jackie S. suggested in the first response; adding the model number of your Maytag washer would most helpful in understand which model you have. If it will fill normally with hot/cold water in the wash fills and not fill in the soak cycle then it could have a timer issue.

So that's what I can tell you at this point. I can give you more detailed help if you could provide me with the complete model number. The model numbers are typically located around the tub opening. If you could supply me with that information I will be happy to assist you further.
by Joey S Earned 1,958 community points in Washers
November 29th, 2011
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Manage My Life
Managemylife.com is a great place to find the answers to just about anything, especially on appliances. I would suggest that you provide a little more information such as the make and complete model number of your product so your expert will be able to provide you the best possible answer. Just click on reply below where you can provide the additional information.
by Manage My Life
November 27th, 2011
Answered in 8 hours
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