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Kenmore Dryer won't stay running after start button released.

Model 110.78974890 won't stay running after the start button is released. It will work after I disconnect PS02 and reseat it usually. I checked for 48VDC across the pink/black wires on the motor start relay, but I am reading 120 VAC instead.

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Dryers , Kenmore , Washers
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31 Answers from these members:
afritz afritz
A dryer is definitely something we depend on and when it begins to malfunction it can be a huge inconvenience. While you are waiting for an expert to respond, I have attached some helpful links below that may provide information to assist you with your question. I hope the links that I provided are helpful. Have a great day!
by afritz afritz Earned 1,360 community points in Kenmore
January 7th, 2012
Answered in 10 hours
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Mark T
Thank you for your question.

I am sorry you are having a problem with the dryer. I looked up the model number you have submitted. The motor relay on this model is a 120-volt relay. I have posted an image below that has the diagnostic procedures for this model. Before doing the checks listed, I recommend ohming the thermistor first. To ohm the thermistor, you need to turn the power off to the dryer. Then open the console and locate the P2 connector. Remove the connector and ohm the red and one of the white wires. You should have a reading of 10,000 ohms at room temperature. If you do not get this reading the thermistor must be replaced. If the thermistor checks ok, follow the instructions in the image below.

Once you determine the problem you can order the parts from our parts website:

Sears Parts Direct

.

I hope this is helpful. Please let me know if you need further assistance.

Thank you for using Manage my life.

Mark T.
by Mark T Earned 1,840 community points in Washers
January 9th, 2012
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Mark T
Thank you for your question.

I am sorry you are having a problem with the dryer. I looked up the model number you have submitted. The motor relay on this model is a 120-volt relay. I have posted an image below that has the diagnostic procedures for this model. Before doing the checks listed, I recommend ohming the thermistor first. To ohm the thermistor, you need to turn the power off to the dryer. Then open the console and locate the P2 connector. Remove the connector and ohm the red and one of the white wires. You should have a reading of 10,000 ohms at room temperature. If you do not get this reading the thermistor must be replaced. If the thermistor checks ok, follow the instructions in the image below.

Once you determine the problem you can order the parts from our parts website:

Sears Parts Direct

.

I hope this is helpful. Please let me know if you need further assistance.

Thank you for using Manage my life.

Mark T.
by Mark T Earned 1,840 community points in Washers
January 9th, 2012
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Manage My Life
I am reading 11.7k ohms across the red and a white wire on the P2 connector. Is this far enough away from what the resistance should be to be causing this problem? If I need to replace the thermistor, how do I get to it?

Earlier in the evening when I wanted to test the dryer I pushed the start button and the dryer would stay running after I released the button. I turned the setting to time dry and started the dryer and stopped it by opening the door several times before leaving it off. When I came back to the dryer later, the timer had elapsed down to zero even thought the dryer had not been running. I turned the knob to 30 minutes and pushed start. The dryer would not stay running after I release the start button. I took apart the console and was not receiving 120VAC across the pink/black wires, but was receiving 99.2VAC across them when the dryer was sitting off without pushing the start button (when the pink/black wires were disconnected from the relay they showed 99.2VAC, but whent they were connected to the relay they read 0VAC.)

After reconnecting the pink/black wires, the dryer now operates normally.

Does any of this sound relevent to another issue other than a possible faulty thermistor that doesn't show 10k ohms as expected?
by Manage My Life
January 10th, 2012
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Mark T
The 11.7 kohms on the thermistor should be fine. I suspect the room the dryer is in is cooler than normal room temperature. If the room is cooler, the resistance in the thermistor goes up. You have one of two problems in the dryer, either an intermittent failure or a loose connection. I recommend unplugging the dryer and taking the connectors off one at a time. The gently squeeze the connector so it fits on the terminal tighter. Then check the operation. If it continues to work, we will say a loose connection caused the problem. If it fails, again it could be a defective control board. Boards can fail once they heat up. I say this because all of the checks you have done have not proven a failure. Please let me know what happens with the dryer.
by Mark T Earned 1,840 community points in Washers
January 11th, 2012
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Manage My Life
Hi, my dryer just stoped running for a few days not. I have done some researches but could not get anywhere. Not sure if have the same symtom as this post. I set the timed dry to 70mins, but when I pressed on the start button the drum started but did not stay running. It just stoped immediately.

If I kept holding the press button down, the drum was rotating but there was not heat.

Could you please give me some hints where I should start looking into. I opened the panel to make sure all the wires are still intact but it still does not work.

Brian.
by Manage My Life
February 9th, 2013
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Mark T
Brian,
I am sorry you are having a problem with the dryer. Without a model number I am not sure what model dryer we are working with. If the console of the dryer says even heat, I recommend unplugging the dryer, opening the console, and looking at the control board. If the control has a burnt spot on it I recommend replacing the board. If you do not see any burnt spot please reply below with the model number. I will be happy to assist you with further diagnostics.

Thank you for using Manage my life.
Mark
by Mark T Earned 1,840 community points in Washers
February 16th, 2013
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Manage My Life
Hi Mark,

Thank you for your response. I did open the console and checked for any loose wire and burnt spot but did not see any. I will check again.

The model I have is 110.C62992102 (SER MP1901025 / TYPE CDOT-ELE-2306024EL54)

I have the Instruction Guide that I found in the console box but it does not help much. It helps me locate where the parts are.

One thing is, if I keep the Start button down the drum turns but there is no heat. The minute I release the button, the drum stops turning. I am not sure, there is no heat is due to
- The heating element or
- Thermistor or
- Control board or
- The timer.

Should I measure the voltage accross the console to pinpoint the problem before I buy any parts.

Thank you.

Brian.
by Manage My Life
February 16th, 2013
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Mark T
You could have a bad motor relay, a wiring failure or a bad electronic control board in the console of the dryer that is causing this problem. The first image below shows a wiring diagram for your dryer with the motor start circuit traced in blue. Since the dryer starts and runs when you hold down that start switch, this indicates that every component in that circuit (including the wiring) is okay. You could have a failed start sense switch (the blue/black wire that is traced in pink on the wiring diagram). I recommend that you unplug the dryer and open the console as shown in the second image below. You will need to remove those end caps and then remove the hidden screw that you will find under those end caps on each side of the console. You can then flip the console up and over the back panel into the service position. The third image shows the location of components in that console. (Your pictures show that you already accessed the components in the console but other readers may need that information.) Check the blue/black start sense wire to make sure that it is connected properly. If you find no problems there, I recommend that you switch the motor relay and the heater relay (those parts are the exactly the same). You will need to completely disconnect all of the wires on each of those relays and physically move them to the new locations and connect all of the wires properly for this test. The wiring diagram and other images shown below should help you switch those components.
I know that you indicated that the dryer does not heat but it would be very unusual for the heater relay and the motor relay to both be bad at one time. The heater relay is probably not bad. It may not be energized by the electronic control board if the motor is not running properly. That is why I recommend that you switch those relays. If the dryer runs properly after switching those relays, then replacing that bad relay (part 3405281) should fix this problem.
by Mark T Earned 1,840 community points in Washers
February 25th, 2013
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Mark T
You can order that part from the

Sears Home Services
by Mark T Earned 1,840 community points in Washers
February 25th, 2013
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Manage My Life
Hi Mark,

I got the problem solved by replacing the Control Board. Rembered in your first email, you suggested I should look for a burnt spot anywhere and I said I did and did not find any. After reading carefully your instructions from the first and second reponses. I could not find anything wrong with the console. I decided to take another look at the Control Board one last time before fullfilling my wife's wishes to get a new one. There, I found a burnt spot on the board. So happy I picked up the phone and ordered one rigt away from Sears. Installed last weekend and everything is back to normal. No more clothes hanging around the house again.

One detail, I am a canadian I needed to order from Sears Canada. It costed me 180$CAN for the part. If I lived in US, I just have to pay 80$US. What's a difference in price! Not sure why we as canadian always pay at a higher cost for everything.

Thank you again for your useful tips. Best regards.

Brian.
by Manage My Life
March 9th, 2013
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Mark T
Brian,
I am glad to hear you have the dryer fixed. I used to look for the burnt spot on the board before doing any checks because it was the easiest and most common problem. If the dryer gets a power surge, it will take the board out.

Thank you for using Manage my life.
Mark
by Mark T Earned 1,840 community points in Washers
March 11th, 2013
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Manage My Life
My Kenmore Elite Model 110.62952100 won't stay running after the start button is released. I reviewed responses to malfunctions for other models. Can I use this guidance on my dryer or do I need specific model troubleshooting guidance?
thanks
by Manage My Life
July 25th, 2013
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Joey S
Jim: No, the information in the above thread is for the models with an AC motor relay and yours is a DC motor relay. If you open your console up, you should find the tech sheet. On your motor relay, the one with the two pink wires with black stripes and two blue wires, press and release the start switch and the measure the DC voltage supply across the two pink wires with a black stripe. It should measure 48 volts DC. If it does not, the even heat board is likely faulty. If it does measure 48 volts DC, the motor relay is faulty. Also, located on P1-5 at the even heat control board is blue wire with a black stripe. When start is pushed, 120 volts AC must be present in order to let the control board that the start button was pushed. At that time the control should supply 48VDC across the two pink wires with the black stripe in order to close the relay (the two blue wires) so the motor will continue to run once the start button is released.
by Joey S Earned 2,288 community points in Kenmore
July 25th, 2013
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I have a Kenmore Elite Quiet Pak 2 with the same issue- it will start when the button is pushed but will not continue to run after the button is release. I'm not sure the model number and don't have any manual or tech sheet. I tried measuring the DC voltage across the two pink and black wires like Joey suggested and the voltage is 0. I'm not sure if that means I'm measuring in the wrong place or if 0V is what you would expect with a faulty heat board. I appreciate any help.
by Manage My Life
July 25th, 2013
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Joey S
Brian: In order to provide any model specific information and troubleshooting assistance I will need to know the model number of the dryer. The model and serial number tag will be located on the dryer. It will likely be around the outer perimeter of the drum opening after opening the door.
by Joey S Earned 2,288 community points in Kenmore
July 25th, 2013
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Manage My Life
Thanks Joey, the model number I found is: GEQ9800PW1. I never noticed before, but the top console says Kenmore and the model & serial number tag says Whirlpool...
by Manage My Life
July 25th, 2013
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Joey S
Brian: Your model has a push to start relay. When start is pushed, there should be 120 volts measured across the pink wire with the black stripe and blue wire on the push to start relay switch. The push to start relay must close in order for the dryer to keep running. If 120 volts is measured across the pink/black wire and the blue, the push to start relay is faulty.
by Joey S Earned 2,288 community points in Kenmore
July 25th, 2013
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Manage My Life
Thanks Joey, So I should measure the AC voltage across the pink/black wire and the blue wire that both attached to the same relay? The AC voltage is 120V across those two wires even when the start button is not being pushed.
by Manage My Life
July 25th, 2013
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Joey S
Brian: Open and then close the door and do not push start and see if still measures 120 across the blue and pink/black wires on the push to start relay.
by Joey S Earned 2,288 community points in Kenmore
July 25th, 2013
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Manage My Life
Yes, still reading 120V.
by Manage My Life
July 25th, 2013
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Joey S
Brian: Disconnect the power cord and the blue and the pink/black wire from the pust to start relay. With and Ohm meter, measure across the two male terminals the blue and pink/black wire was connected to and see if measures open/no continuity.
by Joey S Earned 2,288 community points in Kenmore
July 25th, 2013
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Manage My Life
It is open. Does it matter which pink/black wire terminal to check from? They're both open when tested with the blue wire that measures 120V.
by Manage My Life
July 25th, 2013
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Manage My Life
Thanks Joey, I measured voltage across the two pink/blk wires as you suggested. zero Vdc. There was not a good way to get to P1-5 to verify AC input due to the connector. I removed the even heat card and found discoloration around resistors DZ4 and DZ5, indicative of damage. I believe I have a faulty even heat card. Do you agree or do I absolutely need to find a way to verify AC input to the board?

thanks, Jim
by Manage My Life
July 25th, 2013
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Manage My Life
I took my board out and I also see discoloration around the DZ3-6 area. I think those are diodes though.
by Manage My Life
July 25th, 2013
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Joey S
Brian: If the Ohm meter measured open when you measured for resistance across the two terminals the pink/black and blue wire connected to on the push to start relay, the coil inside the push to start switch is open and you will need to replace the push to start relay. The push to start relay is part #3398094.
by Joey S Earned 2,288 community points in Kenmore
July 26th, 2013
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Joey S
Jim: You are looking for 48 volts DC voltage across the two pink wires with a black stripe at the motor relay. Push start and release the button and then measure the DC voltage at the motor relay across the two Pink/Black wires with the wires connected to the motor relay. If it does not measure 48VDC, the control board is most likely faulty. The motor relay will have two blue wires and two pink/black wires attached.
by Joey S Earned 2,288 community points in Kenmore
July 26th, 2013
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Manage My Life
Thank you Joey, this is not the part that I was checking though. I can't find a three terminal relay inside the console anywhere. The relay that has the pink/black and blue wires attached has four connections, two pink/black and two blue. Something like part #3405281. The start switch is connected to two black wires only.
by Manage My Life
July 26th, 2013
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Joey S
Brian: I added an image below of the wiring diagram for the Whirlpool electric dryer model GEQ9800PW1. The part number 3405281 is a motor relay but according to the model number GEQ9800PW1, it does not use this type of motor relay. The start button would have coil to hold the push to start switch closed to keep the motor running.

If your model has a 3405281 motor relay then it also has an even heat control board too located inside the control panel. So, I must assume the model number is not the correct model for this specific dryer. So, we must assume you have an even heat dryer. So, press start and release it and then measure the DC voltage across the two pink wires with the black stripes at the motor relay. If it does not measure 48VDC, the even heat control board inside the control panel is most likely faulty. Was there a tech sheet located in the control panel? If so, can you give me the part number of it?
by Joey S Earned 2,288 community points in Kenmore
July 26th, 2013
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Manage My Life
No, I couldn't find a tech sheet anywhere. I'm not used to looking at circuit diagrams like this, but I'm pretty sure this is not what I'm seeing inside my console. So, I checked the voltage at the pink/black wires after pushing start and it's 0V DC. Also, like you suggested above to someone else, I checked the voltage at the blue/black wire on the control board when pushing start and it reads 120V AC. That's a bummer, I was hoping it was a small part. It almost makes more sense to buy a whole new dryer than to get a $100 control board for a dryer that's close to five years old. I really appreciate all your help!
by Manage My Life
July 26th, 2013
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Joey S
Brian: Based on you details, the even heat control board is bad. Yes, I know parts are expensive now days no matter what product it is. Thank you for using Manage My Life. Have good day!
by Joey S Earned 2,288 community points in Kenmore
July 26th, 2013
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