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Manage My Life

Flashing lid lock on Kenmore Washer

by Manage My Life Last activity date:
May 28th, 2013

Here's another complaint about lid locks. You'd think with as many problems they have, they could engineer them better or just eliminate them!

I have a Kenmore 110.21102010 washer. Everything works normally until the basket tries to spin. Then the lid lock light starts flashing and the it sort of freezes up for about 4 minutes. The light goes out, I can press Pause/Start twice and it will continue with cycle until it comes to the next time it needs to spin. Same process. Doesn't affect filling, washing, or draining. Plus, when I restart it, it seems to do it's spin thing without freezing up. It's just when it comes to the next scheduled spin program.

Have tried to enter diagnostic code procedure as listed for other lid lock questions, but nothing. It won't go to the diagnostic program. Is this indicative of a failure in the control board? I'm guessing the problem is in either the control board or the lid lock mechinism itself. If you can't help me get to the diagnostic program, from these clues, which would you replace first?

Tags:
Kenmore , Washers
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Answers (27)
Manage My Life
Hi Lorrie, are you still there? Before you do the steps Lyle lists above for the Diagnostic Test Mode, the washer must be in stand-by mode. That is, all lights off. You just turn the control knob for the clicks listed, and the lights will all start flashing together. That indicates the Diagnostic Mode.
by Manage My Life
May 28th, 2013
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Lyle W
Hello Lorrie. Thanks for adding the additional details. Were you able to enter that diagnostic test mode? Does the light sequence that you are describing above happen when you start the washer in the regular mode or the diagnostic test mode? Entering that diagnostic test mode is essential to diagnosing and repairing this type of washer. Give us more information about that sequence described above and we will try to assist you further.
by Lyle W
May 2nd, 2013
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Manage My Life
The fill indicator is lit green and lid locked red, then lid light goes off for a few seconds and then it turns back on again once that happens you have to unplug it because it then will not reset. Could this be a defaulty replacement part? ( latch) ? Thanks for trying to help much appreciated.
by Manage My Life
May 1st, 2013
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Lyle W
Hello Lorrie. I understand your frustration with this washer problem. It is sometimes difficult to enter that diagnostic test model. I recommend that you try again to enter that mode as described in the above image. Turn the knob to the left (counterclockwise) a few clicks to clear the control. Then, within six seconds turn the knob one click right-right-right-left-right with about 1/2 second pause in between clicks. The control should then be in the diagnostic test mode. Once you get into that mode, then you may be able to determine the code that is preventing the washer from running.
by Lyle W
May 1st, 2013
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Manage My Life
HI Thank you for your reply, I have tried to do the diagnostic test as you suggested but nothing seem to happen. When I press start, the fill light goes on, the lid light goes on, but then tries to go into mode, meaning wants to spin but then stops, and lid lock light starts to flash, holding down the start button will not turn off, you have to unplug it. this is for the kenmore model 110.20022012 ( in which really sucks) sorry just pure frustration. but anyways. Im thinking its the control board I could be wrong. or performing the test was not done correctly? Lorrie.
by Manage My Life
May 1st, 2013
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Lyle W
Thanks for providing that model number. It appears that you probably provided more information in this thread:

Lock Light Flashing

. I posted the diagnostic test information for that washer in a response on that Lock Light Flashing thread. I also posted the fault code information and diagnostic test procedure in the image below. That should help you determine the cause of your washer failure. If you need more help, let us know.
by Lyle W
April 30th, 2013
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Manage My Life
kenmore 110.20022012
by Manage My Life
April 29th, 2013
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Manage My Life
Okay, it's over, the d_mn thing's fixed. Since I wasn't making headway on my own and I was already out money for a new control board, I cut my losses, bought their Smart Service Agreement, which by the way was more than $200.00, and had a serviceman out to do his thing. Took him 5 min. to isolate the problem with his computer and codes. For you, Fred, it was "replaced actuator for F7E7". He called it the motor sensor. It detects the rpm of the basket and actuates between agitate and spin for the motor. He says it's a common defective part on these machines, which is why he had one on his truck. Supposedly this showed up in the basket speed sensor fault code. Not sure why we didn't try that one. Anyway, that's the poop and I hope this can help some other poor schmuck. Take notes, Fred. One last thing, when the lid lock flashes red, all it's indicating is there is an error somewhere in the system, it doesn't mean it's necessarily the lid lock. Until next time.
by Manage My Life
August 30th, 2012
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Manage My Life
I am new to this site but I have fixed those washers before. I looked thru this thread and see that you checked the lid lock but it doesnt look like you checked the lid switch. On that first diagram that fred posted you can see the switch circuit (blue to white). Check that circuit from the control board for continuity (measuring near 0 ohms) when the lid is closed. If that circuit is "open" (measuring infinite resistance) when the lid is closed then that lid lock assembly is bad. That could be causing your problems. If it is, then you can probably get an exception from fred to return that control board since that was the wrong fix. I'd ask him.This might help you get that washer fixed
by Manage My Life
August 7th, 2012
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Manage My Life
That's what I'm trying to do, resolve this problem. Through my posts with Fred, we've tried to isolate the problem. We both thought it had to be in the control board, I replaced it and, it wasn't the problem. I'm trying to fix this as cheaply as possible. So far, I'm out $140 for a part that didn't do any good and I can't return it. The way I see it, I have 3 options. I can replace the lid lock assembly for less than $100, even though all tests show it's functioning properly. I can sign up for the Service Smart Agreement policy for probably less than $200 and hopefully get it fixed without too much more outlay. Or I could just call a service professional to come out and fix the d_mn thing, cost (shudder)-unknown. Still mulling it over. What would you do, Brian?
by Manage My Life
August 6th, 2012
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Brian Johnstone
Could the original poster please update this thread with the resolution to the problem? There is a lot of great information here, but no actual resolution. Thanks.
by Brian Johnstone
August 6th, 2012
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Fred M
Sorry for the problem with the site. You've had problems enough with the washer and then with the site also. I agree with you the lid lock should not be a problem since it works consistantly in the test mode. The image below contains more on the motor check as you requested. You run the Manual Test and see if the motor will run. This can be a difficult and frustrating problem to pin down. I will mention one other option. There is a service policy called a Service Smart Agreement that is unusual because it's not much expensive that a control board and it can be purchased even when the machine is broken. It even has a replacement option if a repair runs over $500 dollars. It's not a bad deal particularlly since parts can be expensive on the new washers. Check the harness on the shifter. I'm beginning to thinnk that is where the problem is. Some of the checks below require testing DC voltage. Use extreme caution making these checks.
by Fred M
July 31st, 2012
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Manage My Life
Fred, this site needs work. I put in a reply a week ago and it never posted, so here I go again. I replaced the control board, not to big a deal. Would have been great if it fixed the problem, it didn't. It does the exact same thing. Ran automatic and manual tests on the lid lock and it performs as it should. Could it be in the motor? I noticed there is a TEST #3b; Drive System-Motor. Could I run that and do you have the codes and instructions to do it. Or should I just replace the lid lock? Or should I just junk this piece of cr-p? Sorry, give me a transmission and mechanical control any day.
by Manage My Life
July 29th, 2012
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Fred M
I'm been on vacation. The threads were suppose to forward to another tech. I'm in this weekend if you still need assistance.
by Fred M
June 16th, 2012
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Manage My Life
Fred, where are you? Still looking for a response to my last post of 6-3-12. Help me Obi-Wan, I need to get this fixed.
by Manage My Life
June 14th, 2012
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Fred M
Some things didn't post in the previouse reply. The part can be obtained from the following site:

Electronic Control

. The 1st image above shows how to remove the console to access the control. The 2nd image contains a test you might try to run. Electronic controls tend to be expensive and hard to return. Additional checks are never a wast of time. Let me know how things go.
by Fred M
June 5th, 2012
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Fred M
The control can be obtained from the following link:

t already and see what the results are.
by Fred M
June 5th, 2012
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Manage My Life
Ok, looks like we both suspect the control board. Before I order the part, I'd like to know how involved replacing it is. Do you have service technician pages on the procedure I could study. Also a link to purchase the right part. I'm assuming after replacement, it will have to be initialized somehow, so will need that too. Anything else you can think of is always appreciated.
by Manage My Life
June 3rd, 2012
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Fred M
If the lock worked in the manual test but doesn't in an actual cycel then I suspect the control is at fault.
by Fred M
May 14th, 2012
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Manage My Life
I performed the manual test and the lid lock worked perfectly, or at least as it is supposed to. I think we can eliminate that as the problem. So now what?
by Manage My Life
May 13th, 2012
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Fred M
The images below show how to enter and run the Manual Test. The first test is the lid lock. I hope this helps. You can reply with any additional details for further assistance.
by Fred M
May 13th, 2012
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Manage My Life
I do need help. The pages of the service technician manual I have mention the test and say see page 9, I think. The pages I was able to get from another lid lock problem on this site cover the fault test and automatic test only. Could you give me images to download that I need. Since we're both suspecting the main control board (of course, the most expensive part), is there a definitive test to confirm this? How hard are they to replace and intialize?
by Manage My Life
May 11th, 2012
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Fred M
Great job with running the test. The manual test would be great to check the lid lock. From the description you give I suspect the control is not seeing the lie lock and that is why it starts to spin but stops. Let me know if you need help with the manaual test.
by Fred M
May 7th, 2012
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Manage My Life
No, they only do the all green lites flashing twice, pause, twice, etc. I even tried the test all over and it did the same thing. So I tried the automatic test mode. This worked as advertised going thru each function with the correct lite code until it got to the 'shifter? moves to spin position' (hard to read my printout). The red lid lock lite started flashing again and the green lights became the middle three which codes out to 'lid will unlock and cycle completes'. The thing is, everytime the machine goes to spin, it actually starts spinning the basket for 2-3 seconds before the red flashing light comes on and stops it. It's almost like the heavy current pull of the motor somehow affects the lock circuit. Don't know. Any other tests I can try. How about the manual test. Don't have codes for that one.
by Manage My Life
May 6th, 2012
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Fred M
I always worry about the control with the test does strange things. Did the lights end up illuminating the status lights like the image below?
by Fred M
May 5th, 2012
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Manage My Life
Okay, I've read your answer and I need more help. I checked the ohms resistance on the lid lock mechanism and it reads 100.2 ohms, which is right in the middle of your range. Since it seems to be performing normally when I reset it after flashing (it allows the machine to spin) and the ohms test is good, I'm going to assume the problem is not in the lid lock. I was finally able to get the machine into diagnostic mode and after selecting fault code display mode, I activated it by pushing the start button. All of the green lights started flashing, twice, pause, twice, pause, etc. This isn't in the codes listed. I can turn the dial and get different flashing combinations but it doesn't tell me anything. Comments, suggestions?
by Manage My Life
May 3rd, 2012
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Fred M
I suppose as long as there are small children there will be lid locks. I didn't find any indication of excessive failures but things can break. What can be frustrating is when something will work occasionally like your lock. The washer will not spin unless it sees the door shut and locked. At the end of the day we may replace the lid switch but first I'd suggest you unplug the washer and check the wire connections on the switch. If a meter is available then you can check the resistance of the lock motor. See the image below for help with this. Jiggle and wiggle the wires and make sure the connections are good. If needed the switch can be obtained from the following link:

Kenmore Top Load Washer Lid Lock

.
Answered in 9 hours
by Fred M
April 30th, 2012
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