Here is basically what I did and it worked out fairly well. Total time was about 15-20 minutes. I drilled a 5/8" hole down through the kitchen floor to the basement. I straightened out the copper coil to go down through the floor (BE CAREFUL, the copper kinks EASILY!) I ran down through the floor and routed it to a close cold water line. I turned off the main water supply to the house (shutoff valve coming in from the street). I then 'test' fit the 'clamp' assembly (the part with the valve) around the pipe to make sure I could get at the 2 screws to clamp it together and also get to the valve to turn it on/off. I then took a nail (it was actually a roofing nail, but anything should do) and made a modest but noticable dimple in the pipe (by hitting the nail with a hammer) where the oriface would enter the pipe (I did this becase it would have been VERY hard to drill into a round pipe without a dimple for the drill bit to ride in. The instructions say to use a hand drill, I didn't have one so I used my electric (this was my choice, BEWARE .. electric drills and running water do not mix). I first drilled a 1/8" hole. Water WILL come out even though you have the main shut off. I waited until it was down to a few drips per minute and then drilled the 1/4" hole. Drilling in 2 steps is much easier. I then assembled the 'clamp' valve around the pipe and lined up the 'nipple' that goes into the 1/4" hole that I drilled. Make SURE you have the black rubber washer over the nipple. I then started turning the clamping screws (EQUALLY) until I thought is was tight. Make sure the valve on the clamp in shut off (turn clockwise all the way), and turn on your main household water valve. It's best to have someone watch for leaks while you do this. No leaks, your done. If you have a major spray or steady stream, shut off main household water valve and tighten 2 clamp screws more, then re-test. If you have a slight drip, just start tightening the 2 clamp screws (1/2 turn EACH). Make sure the entire clamp looks even around the pipe. I had a slight leak (drip every second or two). I keep tightening each clamp screw (evenly) until it sealed. Next push the 'female' nut onto the copper coil water line, then the 'ferrel' (little copper piece) onto the copper coil. Push the end of the copper coil (with the ferrel on the end) into the 'male' (part with threads you can see) attachment of the clamp valve. Slide the 'female' nut down and screw onto the valve. I tightened to where the wrench started to get some resistance, the another 1/2 turn. Once the OTHER end is connected to your refrigerator (or whatever), open the clamp valve (counterclockwise) and check for leaks. I had some, have to tighten the 'female' nut another turn and a half. That was it. Not long, still don't leak (3 days). Hope this helps someone!
My husband has installed the self tapping version and this one you have to drill a whole into the pipe! Needless to say, it didn't work and it leaked -- ended up getting a plumber in to install and shut-off valve, etc. and some $$ later, we finally had it. Note: the plumber said that he's never seen such a installation kit (it should be self tapping)!
A very good product!
Installed it three years ago and it is still in good condition
We have old school fridge and doesn't have waterline installed. We got a new Kenmore fridge from Sears also. It is very easy to install and overall a great product.
Just what I needed to do the job
It worked fine and had everything we needed.