Why has my LG Dryer model DLE2301W has blown 4 high limit thermostats in the past 3 weeks?

Having to replace the same part on the dryer can be expensive. I am adding two links below that describe a similar questions. I hope this helps while you wait for your expert response.

I agree the vent would have been my first thought also. I could find no history of a problem with the dryer or the limit thermostats but I agree there is something going on to cause the number of failures and the quickness of the failures.

I have no problem with the repair you did and will talk to you. The detail about the dryer working on low heat is appreciated.

Some things to consider. Even if the vent is perfect I still am suspicious of the vent. If you try a few medium loads with the vent disconnected does the thermostat still blow?

The location of the dryer may be a problem. If it is located in a small laundry room and the door is shut the air flow/ventilation may be affected and cause the safety thermostat to blow. If this is the case then try leaving the door open and see if this helps.

This may take a little back and forth between us to nail the problem down but I'm working all weekend.

On another brand dryer is the safety thermostat blows the replacement part comes as a kit with two thermostats. I wonder if changing the thermistor would help?

Something else to consider is if you feel a need to open the door to check if the clothes are dry then pause the unit first before opening the door. If the door is just opened then the air flow is interrupted while the heating continues till the motor stops. This can cause the safety thermostat to fail.

Just a few thoughts about the problem. You can reply with any additional details for further assistance.

I just had a service tech come out and look at it all. He said all of the components were good (heating element, thermistors, etc). He said that they are told to always change both the High Limit and Cycling thermostats together when only "needing" to change one. So I said sure, go for it. I had not done that yet. Makes some sense, even if the cycling thermostat reads okay on a multimeter maybe it isn't cycling like it should for the high temps. Apparently, he thought I told him not to change both. So he changes one, then leaves. I pay him 115 bucks for it to last about 15 minutes. I call him back, they are supposed to send me new thermostats free of charge for me to change both myself. After that, if they go out again, I guess I need a professional duct cleaning service to come take a look.
Any of that make sense?
Thanks for the help!

You could try a couple of cycles with the hose hose off and see if it helps. Does your vent go straight to the outside or does it go up through the roof. Is it a staight shot or does it had some 90 degree turns?

I am having this issue too. Replaced the thermistor and am on the third high limit switch. Tested the heater for continuity - got a good reading on both terminals. Vent is clear - goes straight outside - I straightened it out and cleaned it. I saw somewhere that the blower wheel can cause this? I know its an inexpensive part but not really wanting to take out the drum if I don't have to. Is this a thing (the blower wheel0?? I currently have the unit apart so testing things is not possible.

I am having this issue too. Replaced the thermistor and am on the third high limit switch. Tested the heater for continuity - got a good reading on both terminals. Vent is clear - goes straight outside - I straightened it out and cleaned it. I saw somewhere that the blower wheel can cause this? I know its an inexpensive part but not really wanting to take out the drum if I don't have to. Is this a thing (the blower wheel0?? I currently have the unit apart so testing things is not possible.

I am having this issue too. Replaced the thermistor and am on the third high limit switch. Tested the heater for continuity - got a good reading on both terminals. Vent is clear - goes straight outside - I straightened it out and cleaned it. I saw somewhere that the blower wheel can cause this? I know its an inexpensive part but not really wanting to take out the drum if I don't have to. Is this a thing (the blower wheel0?? I currently have the unit apart so testing things is not possible.

Typically if your thermal fuse blows, it's an indication that the heat is too high. That could be too much lint, but another possibility, not mentioned here, is that the Hi-Limit thermostat is also not functioning. Try replacing Both Thermostats and see if that doesn't solve the problem. You can test the other thermostat by removing it and checking the continuity. If there is continuity, then place the thermostat on a griddle set to the hi limit stamped on the thermostat. At that temperature the hi-limit thermostat should should shut off creating a "no continuity" reading. Hope that solves your problem. It did mine.