I fixed it and here are the step-by-step instructions. Actual fix time: 1-2 hours.
Time to find the hose clamp: 20 minutes to the hardware store to buy oversized one (see way below for explanation) and then two hours trying to find the perfect clamp which never existed.
Note: F2E2 doesn't tell you anything clearly. From what I've read above, it's water/corrosion interfering with the electrical connection between the bottom electrical control box to the top touch button bar/console on the door. With that said, this is what I did:
1) I downloaded the installation instructions for my Elite washer, finding the model number (65513973k015, but yours can be any variation to the Elite.. I think) on the inside of dishwasher (searspartsdirect.com/dishwasher-repair.html
) after you open the door. I read them so I could safely take out the dishwasher without screwing it up. I used old towels to protect my floor from scraping when I eventually had to lift it up and out of the hole.
2) Before I took out the dishwasher, I removed the bottom panels (as per the reverse of the installation instructions). There is a lot of insulation glued onto those panels, so be careful removing them. I found paperwork attached to the inside of my panel that had the wiring diagram and a list of errors. My guess is that F2E2 means Function 2 (you'll understand when you read the paperwork, although it's very hard to decipher and isn't much use) and E2 is the problem number. Function 2 is "user interface" and Problem 2 is "faulty user interface". In reality, it is meaningless for this because... I started the dishwasher and, to my horror, saw water pouring out. I quickly turned it off and used a sponge to try to dry as much as I could reach underneath the dishwasher. Seeing the water told me that, odds were, that I had the stupid hose clamp problem Joe Drive described. It also told me the F2E2 problem listed on the paperwork didn't make sense. Oh well.
3) I then unplugged my dishwasher (you may need to turn off power using the fuse box), cleaned out under my sink where the hoses attached, and began the process of taking out my dishwasher. In my case, after removing the dishwashers screws to the counter top (not everyone has this), I pulled and lifted the dishwasher out. The lifting is because my dishwasher sat on flooring that didn't have kitchen tile (i.e. it was slightly lower than the main floor). In pulling out, I gently rotated and rocked. That's because there is thick insulation around the dishwasher, part of its quiet design. I did this while stopping and checking that I wasn't pulling the hoses or electrical wires, and had I did, that they weren't going to break/pull off. Again, I had the towels underneath and pulled under to protect the floor, especially in the front part of the dishwasher footing.
3) Once out (I didn't have any issue with the hoses or electrical cord... you may), I put a chair (with protective towel) and leaned the dishwasher onto it so I could inspect the underneath without it falling on me, but without turning it on its side completely. I did this to avoid worrying about the racks and stuff inside falling around and having to deal with that problem.
4) The problem was a small connecting hose to the pump had come off exactly as Joe described. The clamp was still on the hose, but the hose had just come off because of repeated pushing by water pressure from the pump. The little white electrical box Joe described is right next to it... and mine was wet. I just dried the outside and hoped I didn't have to go back into it because I was unsure how to correctly remove the box... although it didn't look too hard. Best left alone if you don't have to. I carefully removed the clamp, pulling it off of the rubber tube and hoping I didn't break the tube. It's actually just a soft, black rubber tube, so it shouldn't break. And then the most difficult part began... finding a replacement clamp.
5) The clamp is, excuse my language, a cheap-ass metal ring that they crimp to make fit the tube/hose. Apparently the crimping machine was miscalibrated in the factory because this tube slipped off after three years of dishwasher use. This crimped hose clamp is 1/4 inch wide, the length I can't tell you. I took it and drove to hardware stores (ACE, Home Depot), autopart stores, and a plumbing supply house. The best I could find is a 1/2 (or less) inch wide hose clamp. The length was figured out by matching the circle/circumference size when I bought it for $1.79 plus tax. Note: try to not over/under size the clamp length/circumference because you need all of it but you don't want much hanging off when you're done.
The reason it's important to try to get a 1/4" wide clamp is that the rubber hose is made for it. Unfortunately, I had to make due with the 1/2" one.
6) Back home I put the loosened clamp over the rubber hose and gently pushed the hose over the plastic pipe end of the pump that it had come off of. (My hose clamp was actually a bit too small and become undone by over-loosening it, but I got it back on and it was just right. You may want a slightly longer one, but that's your decision). The problem with tightening up the hose clamp is you have to go over the molded rubber hose that has a 1/4" groove for the original clamp with a 1/2" clamp. I went ahead and tightened, being very careful to not have the edge of the clamp on the little plastic "tabs" sticking out of the pump pipe (it may not be the pump, but another part, I can't remember at this point) so the clamp is ringed only on the rubber hose and not hanging on the plastic tabs (you'll see what I mean). I actually used a flat head screwdriver to gently nudge it off and rechecking before fully tightening.
7) Once done, I found a wire I had accidentally pulled off, found the obvious spot it came off (and prayed I was right), put the dishwasher back. In putting the dishwasher back, I was careful to try to keep the insulation in place. It will pull out as it scrapes the cabinet as you put it back in. I actually used a metal spatula I cook with to push the insulation back in, without ripping it. I then ran a full wash cycle while watching for water (I hadn't replaced the bottom panel yet). Perfect. I will keep the lower panel off for a few more runs just to make sure.
8) Now: why did this happen? Kenmore (I think it's Whirlpool for this model) didn't design this correctly and it's obvious. The pump just hang onto the machine by this rubber clamp. Every time the water is sprayed, the pump pressurizes and the pump jerks away from the hose where the clamp it, putting pressure on it. After three years, it eventually pulled off. They should have fastened the pump with a plastic tie or something to keep it from moving. Clearly that clamp can't handle this repeated mechanical motion. Any decent engineer should have recognized this would be a problem.
I plan on placing a small wood block under the pump to keep it from moving (it moves down when under pressure) before I replace the lower panel. I'm waiting for it all to dry out. I stress small block because it may need to breathe to avoid overheating (I have not idea if it's an issue, but I'm cautious).
As to other F2E2 ideas: If it's the white box that needs cleaning, at least you know it's underneath next to the pump. Otherwise, it may be the touch panel on the door that needs removing and cleaning. But it seems the hose is the main problem by the discussion here.