First, I recommend that you check the house electrical breakers for the dryer outlet. The dryer will run if only one of the 120 volt legs of 240 volt power is supplied to the dryer. If the second 120 volt leg is missing, the dryer will run but not heat.
If the breakers are okay, I recommend that your check the voltage at the outlet using the diagram in the first image below. NOTE: You should only check this live voltage with a volt/ohm meter if you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely measure it.
Live voltage checks are dangerous, and possibly deadly. Exercise caution at all times. If you are not comfortable working with live electricity I suggest you call an experienced service technician.
If the outlet voltage is okay, you could have a blown thermal cut-off fuse, an open high limit thermostat, a bad thermister, a bad timer, a failed motor centrifugal switch, a bad heater relay, a bad CCU (Central Control Unit) or a wiring failure between components in the heating circuit. The first image below shows the wiring diagram for your dryer. The L1 leg of the heating circuit is traced in red and the L2 leg is traced in blue.
I recommend that you check VAC (Voltage Alternating Current) at the heating element first.
First unplug the dryer.
Remove the back panel to access this component. Remove the red/white wire from the heating element
plug dryer back in and start a regular dry cycle
, and check that wire to neutral, it should be 120.0VAC. Now, check the red wire the same way, it should be 120.0VAC. If either one of these does not show 120.0VAC there is a failed component in that leg of the heat circuit. On the red wire side it is most likely the motor (centrifugal switch) or wiring. On the red/white side it can be any one of the other components I mentioned above.
The second image shows the components in the back of the dryer. Remove one wire from the heater leads (with the dryer still unplugged) and measure the resistance across the leads of the element. You should measure between 7.8 and 11.8 ohms of resistance through this component. If the element is open (measures infinite resistance) then it is bad and will need to be replaced. I know you stated the heater was new but it can still be bad.
If the heating element is okay, you can check the operating thermostat, the thermal cut-off fuse and the high limit thermostat in a similar manner (one wire removed, dryer unplugged). These components should measure near zero ohms of resistance. If any component measures infinite resistance then it will need to be replaced. If the thermal cut-off fuse is blown, the high limit thermostat will need to be replaced at the same time since it should have opened to prevent the thermal cut-off fuse from blowing.
These tips may help you determine the cause of your dryer failure. If all of the above components are okay, you could have a failed timer, a bad motor centrifugal switch or a wiring failure in the heating circuit.
If you need more help, resubmit your question with details of the checks you have made. I will be looking forward to helping you again in the near future.